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no more broken ipad screens an easy guide to replace your ipad, 9th gen front glass. 

welcome back to another idop uk video in this video. I’m going to show you how to professionally replace the front glass on the ipad, 9th generation or the ipad 102 before starting the repair. It’s important to inspect that the lcd isn’t damaged already on this one, because that can add up to a much more costly job and, as you can see, this one is just the glass that needs replacing after powering down the device.

The first and most difficult job is to remove the old broken screen from the chassis. The easiest way to do this is to use a heat, mat or hot plate set to 85°, although you can use a hot air gun or a hair dryer to achieve the same effect, I always place the ipad facing up and what we’re aiming to do is For the for the top of the glass to be hot to the touch, whilst the ipad’s cooking I’ll quickly run through some of the tools and equipment that we use for this repair, you’re going to need some isopropyl alcohol to soften all the adhesives on there. Some microfiber cleaning cloths some kind of fine point, tweezers a razor blade again guitar pick or opening pick and a cross headed screwdriver for the screen that we use.

I highly recommend these x07 screens they’re, designed for ipad 7, 8 and 9 series and in the packet of course, we get the screen with the touch already on there. It’s got preapplied tesser tape on there. It also includes a gasket for the home button.

If that gets damaged during the repair, a fresh home button bracket, as well as a little isolating pick, so that we can isolate power I’ll expl, that a little bit later on I’ll put a link to a you can buy that screen in the description below. Now that this is heated up enough, we need to be careful on this right hand edge here, particularly around this bottom edge. So I don’t even touch that whilst we’re removing the glass instead, I’m going to flip it around, and I’m going to start in this corner here and begin by getting my razor blade in the gap between the metal, chassis and the glass.

We can then pry upwards. You only need to insert that a couple of millim and that’s just to get us started so that we can get our plastic guic in that gap that we just created and begin sliding it down the edge of the ipad in these areas where it’s really broken. I’m going to push it in a little bit further, so you can just see it under the glass, but I’m prying upwards, so that I’m not touching the lcd underneath. You can then run it down the edge and it’s going to lift it for us, because we’re already lifting it a little bit and that’s going to separate it.

You might find that small pieces of glass stay stuck to there. Just use your tweezers to pull them out. Obviously, the glass is always damaged, so it doesn’t really matter if we do any more damage to that. Now that we’ve run down this edge, we sort of got enough out of there so that we can hold it in place like that, and then we’re going to repeat the same on this bottom edge, starting off with the razor blade.

And it’s important to note that the the adhesive is a little bit thicker down this bottom edge, but if you’re using a heat mat, it should be plenty warm enough. However, if you do find that there is any resistance, you can just add a couple of drops of isopropyl alcohol just add a small bead along the edge and then go back with the guitar pick doing the same thing, just prying upwards. It’s got stuck a little bit there, so I’m going to get the razor blade again, get it underneath when you’re around the home button.

You want to be really careful not to insert it far at all, because there is a risk that you’ll cut the flex cable for the home button. If that happens, it will render touch id obsolete. So just a couple of millim, with the pick here nice and steady and we’re just aiming to separate the adhesive from the chassis, you can also lift up where we’ve already removed some of the glass, and you can see now that that’s becoming separate there’s a little Bit here where the adhesive is stuck to the glass here and the chassis here, just take your razor blade and cut that bit so that it releases it and the way this is broken means that we can just pull it upwards.

Like that, we’ll worry about this glass what’s left here later and then move up to this part using the razor blade again to get us started, and then the opening pick just to help us lift it up. I’m going to cut the adive just there and that’s released the screen just about now that we’ve released those three edges. It should just open like opening the back cover of a book just like that.

Just before I move on I’ll quickly point out the flex cables. Just here, and here they’re, the ones that you need to avoid. So that’s why I don’t bother cutting along that edge at all.

You can use a heavy object like a mug to prop up the ipad screen, whilst you’re working on it, and the next thing that we need to do is release the four screws from each corner of the lcd. Just a quick note about the lcd. Now we really want to avoid touching that, because it can be a little bit of a nightmare to clean up. So whatever you do, don’t touch the lcd to remove these bits of glass.

That’s still stuck to the edge I’m going to use. One of these number number 17 xacto blades and I’m just going to very carefully run it along this edge to lift up the broken glass and if I can I’ll just peel it back. But this keeps breaking.

You can see that some of the glass dust is going onto the lcd. That’s not the end of the world dry stuff is fine. Greasy fingerprints can be a pain to clean up, but I will explain how to do that later on now that the glass is removed from that area, we’ve got access to the screw, which is hidden under a little bit of black tape. Just here you can use tweezers to peel back the tape and then use the crossed screwdriver to release the screw.

It didn’t stick to my magnetic driver so I’ll just pull it out with some tweezers as well, and then we’re going to work around the ipad repeating the same step in each corner, carefully, peel back the tape and then use the screw screwdriver to release that one. There is this sort of foam tape that runs all the way around the ipad lcd. There is this sort of foam tape that runs all the way around the ipad’s lcd. We can peel this off because our new piece of glass already has the foam tape preapplied moving down into the bottom right corner.

There’s no tape this time, so we can just remove that screw nice and easy. Finally, this bottom left corner. There is a little bit of glass here, I’m just going to peel it back with the twe users, giving me access to the screw. Now that the lcd is almost free, there is some glue.

What holds down the corners of the lcd. The easiest way that I found to free this is by just using some tweezers and prying upwards on the plastic lug in the corner of the lcd. Just take your time doing this because you don’t want to break that lcd.

You only need to pry up on these two top lugs, because now that that’s released, we can just lift up the lcd, and this is connected at the bottom. Just give it a little wiggle and stand it up just like that. You need to have a bit of dexterity here because I’m going to keep hold of this lcd in this hand and then begin unscrewing it with my left hand, it’s very important to isolate power from the device before we start, removing anything so unscrew this screw here And then, using that little battery isolating pick, we can insert that underneath the battery terminal to isolate power, you might find that it doesn’t go in straight away. If that’s the case, the easiest way to lift it is by getting some curved tweezers like this and just slightly lifting the board releasing it so that we can insert that pig just under the battery.

There’s three more screws down the bottom here: release all three of those remove all three of those and keep them safe for later then use your tweezers to lift up that shield, revealing the connectors for the lcd, touchcreen and home button. It’s best practice to use a plastic prim tool to release these one by one just get underneath it a little bit and release first, we’ll get the lcd out of the way. Now that it’s disconnected and we’ll put that in a safe place for later.

Just make sure you’re not resting anything on top of it and then we’ll go straight back in and just underneath this bit of black tape. Here is the home button connector, because the home button is still attached to the screen. We need to release that first, make sure you don’t forget this step, lift up the black tape, lift up the zip connector and then get your tweezers underneath to pull it out. Just like that, it’s stuck to the bottom of the chassis here, so lift up this little rubber thing and then peel back the flex cable for the home button.

That’s released it now, which means that we can now lift up and release our broken screen. We’ll come back to the screen in a minute, but the first thing that we’re going to do is clean up all the edges of this chassis. Clean chassis will make a good bond for the new digitizer to stick to using the number 17 xacto blade again we’re going to use it as a sort of chisel and just carefully scrape all the old glue from the edges of the device important not to slip.

At this point, because there are flex cables that can be easily damaged, but the risk is worth the reward, because a clean chassis makes a very good bond work. Your way around all four edges making sure all the thick bits of adive are removed again on this bottom edge, be careful of these they’re, the wifi antennas? You don’t want to cut through that. It’s much easier to to get these broken bits of glass as well. Now that the screen’s out of the way and we’re not juggling a lcd and a digitizer in our other hand, whilst you’re running down this right hand edge it’s very important not to pop this battery, because it will explode now that that’s clean, we can see.

There’s still a few bits of just loose glass glass in there, I’m just going to flip it over give it a little shake to get rid of as much as we can, and if there is any left behind, we just get the tweezers and get it out Of the way we don’t want loose glass flying around in there because chances are it’s going to end up between the lcd and the glass and then cause scratches on the display. I’m going to add some isopropyl alcohol onto the edges, and this is just going to soften the adhesive so that we can use a microfiber cloth to clean up any remaining glue on. There obviously be careful when using chemicals around the front camera because any isopropyl alcohol. What gets on there can leave smears on it just one last little tip.

Whilst I’m messing around with the chassi of this, it’s always a good idea to make sure that these screws are tight. You can see that we got a good half or full turn on them on them. Two screws, these loos on all time and it’s a fault with the device apple, never seemed to have addressed it because this has been around since the ipad 5 or the ipad air.

Anyway. This chassis is now ready. We’re going to move on to preparing the screen.

Now now we’re going to go back to the broken digitizer and the first thing that I’m going to remove is this plastic bracket here, because we need that for around the camera same with this other one here, just lift that up to release it. Moving on to the home button, now it’s very important to be very careful when removing this, if it becomes damaged, then, like I said before, touch our will not work on it. The best way to remove it is to start off by releasing the flex cable.

That’s attached to the back of the digitizer here and the easiest way to remove that is to use a little bit of heat. I’m using a heat gun. You can use a haird dryer for the same effect and I’m just going to go at it. Just to warm it up a little bit and soften the adhesive once the adhesive softened, then we can just carefully pull up on the cable to release it from the back of the digitizer.

Leave that just cured back like that and then I’m going to use the number 17 xacto blade again and I’m going to get underneath the brackets this time to release one side. And then this small bit of flex cable. Just here that stick sticks to the back of the glass, we’re going to go very, very carefully, make sure that we’re underneath it and then pry it upwards, like that, that’s releasing it and we can carry on lifting peel off the last bit of flex cable from There that should mean that we can now release the bracket, pull that out of the way and then get the tweezers in between the glass and the home button and carefully lift that up. Releasing the home button a little bit of that foam stuck to the back of the cable there, I’m just going to peel that off and get it out of the way cuz like I said these displays that we’re using has got that foam attached to it.

The button’s now released there’s a few parts to the to the button itself. There’s a plastic gasket. What sits on the edges here? There’s a rubber gasket. What sits on top of that and then there’s a button itself, because this gasket, because the adhesive has come off this gasket and the new display has one of those one of those gaskets on there.

I’m going to remove it to do that. You want to get in between the rubber and the plastic and then just peel away with the tweezers. That’s now released and ready to install onto our new digitizer we’re going to work on the home button straight away into place.

You can see that plastic gasket is there on that. One just make sure that it is because, if it’s not the button will not sit right and it’ll end up sinking place the button down and then using the the older dd that was stuck to it just apply some pressure to the flex cable. There make sure.

There’s nothing stopping it sitting flush with the screen. You can use the bracket that comes with the digitizer. I much prefer to use the original one and the way that I prepare this is by scraping off the old glue with that trusty number 17 exact tail blade clean it off with a couple of drops of alcohol and then use a couple of strips of 5 Mil teser tape on the back of the button there once the tape’s there just cut off any bits so overlap, so that we know that it’s going to be the perfect amount of taper.

We can now take this. We can now peel the back of the tape on the bracket and then the way that it sits down is like that. So you should have a couple of bits on these. You should have a the longer bits of the edges facing down lift up this little bit of cable that sits there and we’re going to sit the bracket underneath it.

These have got some handy little guides on where you need to place it and then just push it down to secure it for extra security. When sticking it down, I use some uv curing glue and I just apply a small bead around the edges of the bracket. Just like the original one is and then set that for a couple of minutes with the uv lump once that’s cured, flip the screen over peel back any plastic that sits on there and give the button a good bashing to make sure that it’s not going to Pop off, remember, kids, use ipads and they always press the button too hard, so make sure it works. Good right.

Remember that bracket what we took off the back of the digitizer. We just have to plunk that there, like that, there’s another one. What sits on top of it, just there like that, and now we can remove this bit of plastic from the digitizer, revealing the flex cables for it and we’re going to reconnect them into their corresponding connectors. They can be awkward to get in place.

That would lucky that I got it first time, but once you got one in the other one lines up pretty well, don’t forget the cup. Now it’s time to connect the home button, just slide it into the zif connector and then push down to res secure it. Now, let’s get the lcd back and start off, I’m just going to remove the last remaining bits of foam around the edges, some of it.

Some of it did come off when we were removing the digitizer, but we’ll get the rest of it off now, and then I’m just going to give it a sort of dusting off to get all that glass dust off there before we put it into place, which We we’ll give it a final clean before then need your dexterity again, I’m reconnecting this I’m blessed with quite large hands, so I can hold it in one hand and then connect it with the other one, and this is the part where you’re going to be really Grateful for magnetic screwdrivers, because you don’t have another another hand, if you’re holding the lcd with one hand, you don’t have another hand free to help. You guide the screws, the screwdriver into the holes rescure, those three screws holding down that shield make sure they’re, nice and tight with those secured. You can pull out the battery isolating pick and rescure the battery screw, and now we can lay the lcd flat into the chassis, make sure all four corners line up nicely and then begin resecuring those four screws in each corner.

Finally, this one goes in at this point: you want to turn on the device we can temporarily just close up the digitizer, so we can test, touch press and hold the power button, and as as long as we don’t drop that slider up there, then it means The touch is good anyway. Anyway, let’s open the ipad back up now and I always find that the easiest way to rescure it and clean it is to release three edges of the adhesive so peel off the backing sheet from these three edges leave the adhesive on down there peel back the Plastic film, don’t forget this bit: cuz it’ll, look like trash, then act quickly now and use your cleanest, cleanest, cleanest, clean room cloth and just get the lcd one. Last wip before we seal it up, make sure there’s no dust debris on there. It’s easiest to do on a black screen with good lighting, cuz you’ll, see any white spots or dust or glass and then close up the ipad make sure that it lines up nicely on this edge here, and that’s that’s going to mean that the rest of it Lines up perfect and then, as for the bit of adhesive, that we left in, we can peel that away now, peel that away now and then just make sure that these two cables here don’t get snagged on the chassis, whilst you’re closing it up.

If you find that it is catching a little bit just use the back end of the tweezers and just push it down a touch to guide it in same with the home button flex, cable. We can help it along like that and then just give the edges a real good squeeze. There’s no need to use clamps on these.

You often see people using clamps, but the adhesive that’s on there is solid. It’s really good just make sure that it’s stuck down all the way, really nice and secure, and then this ipad, once this plastic film’s removed, is ready to go back to our c customer. Thank you for watching and see you next time.

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