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video title no more broken ipad screens an easy guide to replace your ipad, 9th gen front glass. Video text welcome back to another idop uk video in this video. I’m going to show you how to professionally replace the front glass on the ipad, 9th generation or the ipad 102 before starting the repair. It’s important to inspect that the lcd isn’t damaged already on this one, because that can add up to a much more costly job and, as you can see, this one is just the glass that needs replacing after powering down the device.

The first and most difficult job is to remove the old broken screen from the chassis. The easiest way to do this is to use a heat, mat or hot plate set to 85°, although you can use a hot air gun or a hair dryer to achieve the same effect, I always place the ipad facing up and what we’re aiming to do is For the for the top of the glass to be hot to the touch, whilst the ipad’s cooking I’ll quickly run through some of the tools and equipment that we use for this repair, you’re going to need some isopropyl alcohol to soften all the adhesives on there. Some microfiber cleaning cloths some kind of fine point, tweezers a razor blade again guitar pick or opening pick and a cross headed screwdriver for the screen that we use.

I highly recommend these x07 screens they’re, designed for ipad 7, 8 and 9 series and in the packet of course, we get the screen with the touch already on there. It’s got preapplied tesser tape on there. It also includes a gasket for the home button. If that gets damaged during the repair, a fresh home button bracket, as well as a little isolating pick, so that we can isolate power I’ll expl, that a little bit later on I’ll put a link to a you can buy that screen in the description below.

Now that this is heated up enough, we need to be careful on this right hand edge here, particularly around this bottom edge. So I don’t even touch that whilst we’re removing the glass instead, I’m going to flip it around, and I’m going to start in this corner here and begin by getting my razor blade in the gap between the metal, chassis and the glass. We can then pry upwards. You only need to insert that a couple of millim and that’s just to get us started so that we can get our plastic guic in that gap that we just created and begin sliding it down the edge of the ipad in these areas where it’s really broken.

I’m going to push it in a little bit further, so you can just see it under the glass, but I’m prying upwards, so that I’m not touching the lcd underneath. You can then run it down the edge and it’s going to lift it for us, because we’re already lifting it a little bit and that’s going to separate it. You might find that small pieces of glass stay stuck to there. Just use your tweezers to pull them out.

Obviously, the glass is always damaged, so it doesn’t really matter if we do any more damage to that. Now that we’ve run down this edge, we sort of got enough out of there so that we can hold it in place like that, and then we’re going to repeat the same on this bottom edge, starting off with the razor blade. And it’s important to note that the the adhesive is a little bit thicker down this bottom edge, but if you’re using a heat mat, it should be plenty warm enough. However, if you do find that there is any resistance, you can just add a couple of drops of isopropyl alcohol just add a small bead along the edge and then go back with the guitar pick doing the same thing, just prying upwards.

It’s got stuck a little bit there, so I’m going to get the razor blade again, get it underneath when you’re around the home button. You want to be really careful not to insert it far at all, because there is a risk that you’ll cut the flex cable for the home button. If that happens, it will render touch id obsolete. So just a couple of millim, with the pick here nice and steady and we’re just aiming to separate the adhesive from the chassis, you can also lift up where we’ve already removed some of the glass, and you can see now that that’s becoming separate there’s a little Bit here where the adhesive is stuck to the glass here and the chassis here, just take your razor blade and cut that bit so that it releases it and the way this is broken means that we can just pull it upwards.

Like that, we’ll worry about this glass what’s left here later and then move up to this part using the razor blade again to get us started, and then the opening pick just to help us lift it up. I’m going to cut the adive just there and that’s released the screen just about now that we’ve released those three edges. It should just open like opening the back cover of a book just like that.

Just before I move on I’ll quickly point out the flex cables. Just here, and here they’re, the ones that you need to avoid. So that’s why I don’t bother cutting along that edge at all. You can use a heavy object like a mug to prop up the ipad screen, whilst you’re working on it, and the next thing that we need to do is release the four screws from each corner of the lcd.

Just a quick note about the lcd. Now we really want to avoid touching that, because it can be a little bit of a nightmare to clean up. So whatever you do, don’t touch the lcd to remove these bits of glass. That’s still stuck to the edge I’m going to use.

One of these number number 17 xacto blades and I’m just going to very carefully run it along this edge to lift up the broken glass and if I can I’ll just peel it back. But this keeps breaking. You can see that some of the glass dust is going onto the lcd. That’s not the end of the world dry stuff is fine.

Greasy fingerprints can be a pain to clean up, but I will explain how to do that later on now that the glass is removed from that area, we’ve got access to the screw, which is hidden under a little bit of black tape. Just here you can use tweezers to peel back the tape and then use the crossed screwdriver to release the screw. It didn’t stick to my magnetic driver so I’ll just pull it out with some tweezers as well, and then we’re going to work around the ipad repeating the same step in each corner, carefully, peel back the tape and then use the screw screwdriver to release that one. There is this sort of foam tape that runs all the way around the ipad lcd.

There is this sort of foam tape that runs all the way around the ipad’s lcd. We can peel this off because our new piece of glass already has the foam tape preapplied moving down into the bottom right corner. There’s no tape this time, so we can just remove that screw nice and easy.

Finally, this bottom left corner. There is a little bit of glass here, I’m just going to peel it back with the twe users, giving me access to the screw. Now that the lcd is almost free, there is some glue. What holds down the corners of the lcd.

The easiest way that I found to free this is by just using some tweezers and prying upwards on the plastic lug in the corner of the lcd. Just take your time doing this because you don’t want to break that lcd. You only need to pry up on these two top lugs, because now that that’s released, we can just lift up the lcd, and this is connected at the bottom.

Just give it a little wiggle and stand it up just like that. You need to have a bit of dexterity here because I’m going to keep hold of this lcd in this hand and then begin unscrewing it with my left hand, it’s very important to isolate power from the device before we start, removing anything so unscrew this screw here And then, using that little battery isolating pick, we can insert that underneath the battery terminal to isolate power, you might find that it doesn’t go in straight away. If that’s the case, the easiest way to lift it is by getting some curved tweezers like this and just slightly lifting the board releasing it so that we can insert that pig just under the battery.

There’s three more screws down the bottom here: release all three of those remove all three of those and keep them safe for later then use your tweezers to lift up that shield, revealing the connectors for the lcd, touchcreen and home button. It’s best practice to use a plastic prim tool to release these one by one just get underneath it a little bit and release first, we’ll get the lcd out of the way. Now that it’s disconnected and we’ll put that in a safe place for later. Just make sure you’re not resting anything on top of it and then we’ll go straight back in and just underneath this bit of black tape.

Here is the home button connector, because the home button is still attached to the screen. We need to release that first, make sure you don’t forget this step, lift up the black tape, lift up the zip connector and then get your tweezers underneath to pull it out. Just like that, it’s stuck to the bottom of the chassis here, so lift up this little rubber thing and then peel back the flex cable for the home button. That’s released it now, which means that we can now lift up and release our broken screen.

We’ll come back to the screen in a minute, but the first thing that we’re going to do is clean up all the edges of this chassis. Clean chassis will make a good bond for the new digitizer to stick to using the number 17 xacto blade again we’re going to use it as a sort of chisel and just carefully scrape all the old glue from the edges of the device important not to slip. At this point, because there are flex cables that can be easily damaged, but the risk is worth the reward, because a clean chassis makes a very good bond work. Your way around all four edges making sure all the thick bits of adive are removed again on this bottom edge, be careful of these they’re, the wifi antennas? You don’t want to cut through that.

It’s much easier to to get these broken bits of glass as well. Now that the screen’s out of the way and we’re not juggling a lcd and a digitizer in our other hand, whilst you’re running down this right hand edge it’s very important not to pop this battery, because it will explode now that that’s clean, we can see. There’s still a few bits of just loose glass glass in there, I’m just going to flip it over give it a little shake to get rid of as much as we can, and if there is any left behind, we just get the tweezers and get it out Of the way we don’t want loose glass flying around in there because chances are it’s going to end up between the lcd and the glass and then cause scratches on the display. I’m going to add some isopropyl alcohol onto the edges, and this is just going to soften the adhesive so that we can use a microfiber cloth to clean up any remaining glue on.

There obviously be careful when using chemicals around the front camera because any isopropyl alcohol. What gets on there can leave smears on it just one last little tip. Whilst I’m messing around with the chassi of this, it’s always a good idea to make sure that these screws are tight. You can see that we got a good half or full turn on them on them.

Two screws, these loos on all time and it’s a fault with the device apple, never seemed to have addressed it because this has been around since the ipad 5 or the ipad air. Anyway. This chassis is now ready. We’re going to move on to preparing the screen.

Now now we’re going to go back to the broken digitizer and the first thing that I’m going to remove is this plastic bracket here, because we need that for around the camera same with this other one here, just lift that up to release it. Moving on to the home button, now it’s very important to be very careful when removing this, if it becomes damaged, then, like I said before, touch our will not work on it. The best way to remove it is to start off by releasing the flex cable.

That’s attached to the back of the digitizer here and the easiest way to remove that is to use a little bit of heat. I’m using a heat gun. You can use a haird dryer for the same effect and I’m just going to go at it.

Just to warm it up a little bit and soften the adhesive once the adhesive softened, then we can just carefully pull up on the cable to release it from the back of the digitizer. Leave that just cured back like that and then I’m going to use the number 17 xacto blade again and I’m going to get underneath the brackets this time to release one side. And then this small bit of flex cable. Just here that stick sticks to the back of the glass, we’re going to go very, very carefully, make sure that we’re underneath it and then pry it upwards, like that, that’s releasing it and we can carry on lifting peel off the last bit of flex cable from There that should mean that we can now release the bracket, pull that out of the way and then get the tweezers in between the glass and the home button and carefully lift that up.

Releasing the home button a little bit of that foam stuck to the back of the cable there, I’m just going to peel that off and get it out of the way cuz like I said these displays that we’re using has got that foam attached to it. The button’s now released there’s a few parts to the to the button itself. There’s a plastic gasket. What sits on the edges here? There’s a rubber gasket.

What sits on top of that and then there’s a button itself, because this gasket, because the adhesive has come off this gasket and the new display has one of those one of those gaskets on there. I’m going to remove it to do that. You want to get in between the rubber and the plastic and then just peel away with the tweezers.

That’s now released and ready to install onto our new digitizer we’re going to work on the home button straight away into place. You can see that plastic gasket is there on that. One just make sure that it is because, if it’s not the button will not sit right and it’ll end up sinking place the button down and then using the the older dd that was stuck to it just apply some pressure to the flex cable. There make sure.

There’s nothing stopping it sitting flush with the screen. You can use the bracket that comes with the digitizer. I much prefer to use the original one and the way that I prepare this is by scraping off the old glue with that trusty number 17 exact tail blade clean it off with a couple of drops of alcohol and then use a couple of strips of 5 Mil teser tape on the back of the button there once the tape’s there just cut off any bits so overlap, so that we know that it’s going to be the perfect amount of taper.

We can now take this. We can now peel the back of the tape on the bracket and then the way that it sits down is like that. So you should have a couple of bits on these.

You should have a the longer bits of the edges facing down lift up this little bit of cable that sits there and we’re going to sit the bracket underneath it. These have got some handy little guides on where you need to place it and then just push it down to secure it for extra security. When sticking it down, I use some uv curing glue and I just apply a small bead around the edges of the bracket.

Just like the original one is and then set that for a couple of minutes with the uv lump once that’s cured, flip the screen over peel back any plastic that sits on there and give the button a good bashing to make sure that it’s not going to Pop off, remember, kids, use ipads and they always press the button too hard, so make sure it works. Good right. Remember that bracket what we took off the back of the digitizer.

We just have to plunk that there, like that, there’s another one. What sits on top of it, just there like that, and now we can remove this bit of plastic from the digitizer, revealing the flex cables for it and we’re going to reconnect them into their corresponding connectors. They can be awkward to get in place. That would lucky that I got it first time, but once you got one in the other one lines up pretty well, don’t forget the cup.

Now it’s time to connect the home button, just slide it into the zif connector and then push down to res secure it. Now, let’s get the lcd back and start off, I’m just going to remove the last remaining bits of foam around the edges, some of it. Some of it did come off when we were removing the digitizer, but we’ll get the rest of it off now, and then I’m just going to give it a sort of dusting off to get all that glass dust off there before we put it into place, which We we’ll give it a final clean before then need your dexterity again, I’m reconnecting this I’m blessed with quite large hands, so I can hold it in one hand and then connect it with the other one, and this is the part where you’re going to be really Grateful for magnetic screwdrivers, because you don’t have another another hand, if you’re holding the lcd with one hand, you don’t have another hand free to help. You guide the screws, the screwdriver into the holes rescure, those three screws holding down that shield make sure they’re, nice and tight with those secured.

You can pull out the battery isolating pick and rescure the battery screw, and now we can lay the lcd flat into the chassis, make sure all four corners line up nicely and then begin resecuring those four screws in each corner. Finally, this one goes in at this point: you want to turn on the device we can temporarily just close up the digitizer, so we can test, touch press and hold the power button, and as as long as we don’t drop that slider up there, then it means The touch is good anyway. Anyway, let’s open the ipad back up now and I always find that the easiest way to rescure it and clean it is to release three edges of the adhesive so peel off the backing sheet from these three edges leave the adhesive on down there peel back the Plastic film, don’t forget this bit: cuz it’ll, look like trash, then act quickly now and use your cleanest, cleanest, cleanest, clean room cloth and just get the lcd one. Last wip before we seal it up, make sure there’s no dust debris on there.

It’s easiest to do on a black screen with good lighting, cuz you’ll, see any white spots or dust or glass and then close up the ipad make sure that it lines up nicely on this edge here, and that’s that’s going to mean that the rest of it Lines up perfect and then, as for the bit of adhesive, that we left in, we can peel that away now, peel that away now and then just make sure that these two cables here don’t get snagged on the chassis, whilst you’re closing it up. If you find that it is catching a little bit just use the back end of the tweezers and just push it down a touch to guide it in same with the home button flex, cable. We can help it along like that and then just give the edges a real good squeeze. There’s no need to use clamps on these.

You often see people using clamps, but the adhesive that’s on there is solid. It’s really good just make sure that it’s stuck down all the way, really nice and secure, and then this ipad, once this plastic film’s removed, is ready to go back to our c customer. Thank you for watching and see you next time.

 Cheap vs Expensive Phones – How close ARE they!?

I’ve been seeing a lot of budget phones
recently that claim to offer you the
world they make such bold claims about
their amazing screens and theyre amazing
cameras and there amazing battery and
how the specs are absolutely  ludicrous
that they really make you wonder if all
of this was actually true then why would
anyone ever spend more than the $3 to
$400 that they cost and are Flagship
phones basically a scam so let’s find
out this is the top of the line almost
maxed out Samsung Galaxy s23 Ultra which
I bought for
$1,379 and then this is I think the best
spec affordable phone that’s ever
existed the $349 xiaomi redmi note 13
Pro Plus yeah I could buy four of these
phones for the price it would cost to
buy one of these so let’s properly test
every test
every aspect of both phones to see how
close or far the experiance actually is
so as far as the unboxing goes its not
a question of how close the redmi can
get to the Samsung its really how close
the Samsung can get to the redmi the
answer to which is not very close this
note 13 Pro Plus it comes wtih a matte
black case included a USBC cable and
then a I’m not even joking 120 W fast
charger Samsung literally just comes
with a cable so there’s already
additional cost that your going to
have to to pay out nad even when you spend
that money you’re still not going to get
close to the charging speed of the redmi
but more on that later let’s start with
the build you would expect Flagship
phones to get you higher quality
materials right and in a way that is the
case teh s23 ultra comes with the very
latest Gorilla Glass victus 2 the redmi
comes with teh prior generation Gorilla
Glass victus 1 1 which just requires a
little bit less Force to damage the rim
going around the Samsung is armor
aluminium which is a bit tougher than
the more standard aluminium that you get
on the redmi but
really that’s it will 99% of people be
able to tell any perceptible difference
in quality I dont think so there’s not
a single bit of flexing or creaking on
the xiaomi the vegan leather on the back
to me feels just as high quality as the
glass on the Samsung and it passes the
scratch test I’ve rubbed Keys against it
cards against it phones against it and
it doesn’t realy pick up any wear wear and
tear these buttons on the side they’re
so there really quiet to press and
just generally the phone is way more
comfy it’s got soft rounded Corners  that
don’t dig into your hands like Samsung’s
sharp ones and it’s allmost 15% lighter
which is light  enough to feel liberating
when youre comming form this to this but
not light enough to feel cheap and yeah
Flagship phones do tend to have ip68
water resistance but so does the redmi
so at 25% of the price I would genuinely
say the build and design your getting
is 95% as good which is a very strong
start and then you turn teh teh screens on
and you have to full-on check yourself
because this is where you would assume
the difference would be immediately
obvious but the redmi has not just a
passable screen or even a good screen
this is nearly as good as you can get
both phones have a 120 HZ Max refresh
rate both are OLED panels which keeps
the contrast levels high nad both have
basically infinite viewing angles
Samsung has a very slight blue tinge as
you rotate and xiaomi has a very slight
yellow tinge but barely noticable on
either now Samsung’s display is a better
display like its got the ability to be
both High higher resolution and brighter
but it’s also a really good example of
how nowadays the Baseline is so good
that you probably either won’t notice
the difference or you’ll actually think
the xiaomi looks better for example in
terms of resolution the Samsung has a
1440 by 3088 display which is 4.4
million pixels compared to xia’s Max of
1220 by 2712 which is 3.3 million pixels
but here’s the thing Samsung knowing how
Niche  the need for that many pixels is
actually ships teh phone set to 2316 by
1080  which is just 2.5 million so while
it can be sharper the setting that it
comes with the one they recomend and
therefore what most people are going to
use it with is actually less sharp exact
same thing for brightness while Samsung
is capable of going brighter that extra
brightness is locked behind a separate
setting that most people probably won’t
enable since it specifically warns you
of the loss of battery if you do and
assuming  you don’t the redmi note is
actually teh brighter  of the two screens
the only meaningful advantage that the
Samsung and any $1,000 plus phone screen
will have is ltpo ltpo which is a more
advanced more expensive bottom layer to
the screen that lets it not just get its
refresh rate super high but also dial it
down really low like to 30 HZ when
you’re watching a video that’s only
refreshing 30 times per second or 10 HZ
on a fairly static web page no budget
phone has this Tech and so the lowest
they’re going to be able to go is 60
this doesn’t actually have any impact on
the screen quality and so four screens
I’m going to say the redmi is again 95%
of the Samsung Experience but it should
come into play with battery as of now
though if this phone continues at this
rate of being 95% as good while also
coming wtih everything you need in the
box then honestly it is on track to
completely embarass the flagships of
this year so then I thought what’s
likely to be the weakest link of a phone
like this where they have most tried to
cut Corners what about the signal so I
started by doing a Wi-Fi speed test I
went to three different locations and in
location one they were basically on par
location par
location two Samsung was edging out to
the xiaomi nad then location 3 xiaomi
edged out the Samsung meaning really
there’s nothing in it unless you have
some Bonkers Wi-Fi high speeds and
you’re reaching the ceiling of what this
phone is capable of so then I put a UK
vone Sim into both phones went to three
different spots again to test cellular
speeds I started started wtih my desk which
sadly is a pretty  low signal environment
and honestly Samsung destroyed the red
Mei it had two times the download speed
almost three times the upload speed
faster across the board in a medium
signal environment though it’s about a
draw Samsung had higher download speeds
and less latency but xiaomi’s upload
speed is clearly ahead and this was
consistent with what I found in the high
signal environment where xiaomi’s upload
speed completely runs away with it but
Samsung has faster download and slightly
less latency and the real life
experiences of these phones quite
closely match what I found in that test
I found myself trusting the Samsung more
when I get to those difficult
hard-to-reach places like the inside of
an airplane you will notice the redmi
signal dropping off faster which is also
not exactly surprising given that it has
a less Advanced 5G modem nad almost
definitely fewer fewer anten ey in the Samsung
now because of this I was also expecting
the Samsung to hit higher Max speeds
when you get to a city but I guess the
state of UK 5G right now is just not
there this might be different for some
parts of the US but largely speaking
globally I dont think you’ll be getting
close to the potential Max speeds of
either so I would say the redmi is 85%
of the signal experiance of the Samsung
what about battery then for which I was
fully expecting the  redmi to get
demolished I thought well past redmi
phones haven’t exactly had the best
battery and also this is where the lack
of an ltp screen is going to catch up
with it well there’s two sides to
battery one is charging for which it’s
not close Samsung does have wireless
charging which the redmi doesn’t but
it’s tough to argue against that phone’s
120 W charger taht fully charges it in
20 minutes or in other words three times
faster then the absolute fastest that
the Samsung can possibly charge wtih a
charger that you’d have to then buy
separately but then the other side to
this is how much life can yuo get out of
that full charge and this is where it
swings the other way both phones are
matched on paper with 5,000 Mah
batteries but I was running a
side-by-side battery test of the two
yesterday I just basically pulled up
YouTube and left them them to it and while
the Samsung successfully reached the end
of the the day with 35% left the redmi was
hanging on with 21 which is already a
big diffrence but then there’s three
further things in the Samsung’s favor
one that if you look really closely at
the spec sheet you’ll notice that while
both phones have the same capacity
they’re actually using different battery
technologies Samsung with Leon xiaomi
and most phones like it with Lee poly
this is very easy to miss but
essentially but
essentially Lee poly is an older cheaper
type of tech  that while fast to charged
generally depletes faster and
importantly degrades faster in the long
term which will likely be compounded by
the second thing the heat generated in
xiaomi’s battery because because of its Ultra
fast charging so 3 years in the future
the gap between these phones might be
twice as big and then three that the
Samsung wastes less battery while on
standby teh fact that it has a
top-of-the-line Snapdragon chip means
that yes its max power consumption will
be higher when its pushed but it’s also
smarter than the mid-range ship in the
redmi so it knows how to consume less
power when it’s not being pushed as for
how close that makes this battery
category well it depends how you use
your phone I know people who constantly
top up throughout the day in which case
you would wait the redmi’s fast charging
more heavily me personally I just want
to charge my phone once overnight and
then just trust that it’s going to last
both during the day and then also in the
long term so for my uses the redmi’s
battery experience is a decent 25%
behind what the Samsung is offering and
if youre enjoying this video then a sub
to the channel would be Sam
in terms of software then I was
surprised by this  affordable phone
xiaomi especially has a bit of
reputation with there cheaper phones for
tons of ads and tons of bloatware that’s
a big part of how theyre phones
historically have been so affordable
with this I’ve had neither  of those two
things now wether that’s because this
is the China launch software as opposed
to the international launch software
that it will come wtih or if xiaomi
views this actually as a premium phone I
don’t know but the point is my software
experience has been pretty great the
phone is is running mui1 14 based on
Android 13 so it’s up to date all the
animations in your day-to-day experience
are smooth and beatiful and jiggly it’s
got tons of customization options
everything form the way your phone
responds to Notifications to how your
fingerprint scanner reacts as you press
your finger onto it and then the Samsung
is running one UI based on Android 13
which I would describe as probably the
more corporate of the two on the face of
it but at the same time I do have a new
found appreciation for the  sheer sheer extent
of customizability you unlock with
Samsung’s goodlock app its probably the
best you can do on Android without
installing custom firmware I mean the
actual software skin that youre going
to get will  depend on which brand of
budget and Flagship you  end up going for
but the key point I’m trying to make
here is that the software package you
get on the  affordable phone is the real
deal it’s not missing anything where
they diverge though is in the software
support the way to think about  it is
this when when youre selling a phone phone for
$1,000 plus you have far more room
within taht budget too justify  spending
the time required to keep that
experience high level and there’s an
incentive to cuz anyone buying your
$1,000 plus Flagship they are
immediately one of youre most valuable
customers so keep them happy and
invested and they’ll keep spending on
your services and your ecosystem
products nad your next Flagship phones
so while with most companies you can
expect 3 to five full years of updates
after launch on theyre  flagships on the
budget end of teh spectrum that’s much
more likely to be 2 years of updates and
you’ll get those updates slower because
you’re considered  a lower priority by
that company now this is important but I
also wouldn’t overweight it it’s not
like the moment an Android version comes
out that you’re not getting your phone
becomes garbage no your battery
degradation especially here is much more
likely to end up being the reason you
switch than a lack of updates is so I
would say the software experience of the
redmi is again around that 85% Mark
compared to the very best but do you
know what’s not 85% as good the
performance all right so spec-wise the
s23 ultra here has has a Snapdragon 8 Gen 2
chip and  by default it would have 8 gigs
of RAM but I bought the upgraded version
with 12 gigs of RAM to match the 12 that
come by default in the redmi and then
this redmi as well as the beefy 12 GB of
RAM is powered by the dimensity 7200
Ultra chip which sounds amazing right
the chip actually has Ultra in its name
so its got to be top level well not
really in a very literal sense if we run
a geekbench benchmark the CPU on the
flagship is about two times the
performance of this phone and the GPU is
about 3 times it’s an an order of magnitude
more powerful on  paper paper but how much do
you really feel that day-to-day well
when youre opening apps Samsung is
pretty significantly more responsive
probably partly the chipset and partly
also the faster storage you get it just
feels like it’s ready to load things at
all times playing games there’s a big
difference to like just look at how
much nicer this game looks on the
Samsung its running at a higher
resolution higher
resolution it’s running at a higher
frame rate and there are so many more
effects on screen than the xiaomi can
handle xiaomi has a few more stutters
when yuo do something the phone isn’t
expecting you to do nad you’ll just
generally notice it being sluggish when
you’re trying to do things that are
considered Pro user tasks like zooming
in nad out of a super high res photo so
for me in my uses there is a very clear
speed Gap I’d say the red me is only 50%
of the Samsung Experience but it does
also depend on who’s using it if you’re
sticking to the basics if youre looking
for a phone to make calls to browse the
internet to take some nice photos and
then  edit those photos for social media
then youre not going to come across the
situations in which the differences are
really noticable so you’ll find it
closer to 75% 80% of the flagship EXP
experience and we should talk about
photos cuz cameras are where tech
companies seem to be spending the
majority of theyre effort and spare
budget but when  you dont have spare
budget how how much are you giving up well
funnily well
funnily enough both of these phones have
a 200 megap Main camera the Samsung’s is
a better 200 megapixel camera but not by
as much as you might think like this is
a 200 megapixel shot on each Samsung is
a bit less fuzzy its sharper but only
really because more sharpening has been
applied you could actually argue both
ways which is actually the better a
photo I’ve taken a lot of side by sides
here and when youre using the redmi
right the diffrence between the two
phones is really not what you think it
should be in a way it’s just a cool time
to be alive where an affordable phone
can do this and I was pretty shocked to
see taht at night using the main camera
the Gap is even smaller sometimes
actually tipping the other way where I
would say this $349 phone has taken a
better photo than this
$379 phone now that shouldn’t be the
main the
main takeaway here but the point I’m
trying to make is that the hardware is
good enough here but if you learn how to
use it it well to play to it’s strengths and
skirt its weaknesses the ceiling ceiling ceiling of what
you can acheive is still super high that
said there are a whole slew of reasons
why it’s much easier too get a great
photo on a  flagship for starters you’ll
get a proper Hardware focusing system
like the  Samsung for example has a laser
that just helps it lock onto things so
while sometimes when you get into lower
light this phone has to kind of hunt for
Focus you dont need to worry here and
actually all the the cameras on Flagship
phones they tend to be able to autofocus
which means you can use your ultrawide
camera to double as a macro camera for
close-ups instead of building an
entirely seperate camera on budget
phones just for macro that will also
happen to be much worse quality the
software processing on Samsung is more
sophisticated it understands faces and
how to sharpen them which is especially
apparent when your taking selfies
since that tends to be the focal point
its portrait mode blur effect is more
realistic to my eyes and the zoom  I mean
Samsung has both a three times and a 10
times zoom lens affordable phones
nowadays they tend to have nothing so
they will get obliterated oh  yeah and if
you ever want to properly expose a less
good camera try video cuz video is hard
stabilization matters much more wtih it
and its also also  one of teh first things
that skimped on to save costs video
requires more Hardware power to apply
effects like noise reduction in real
time and it’ll also be incredibly
obvious with video when the focus dips
even if it’s for a second so in terms of
the overall camera experiance I would
say the redmi is again 50% of what the
Samsung is it gets the single most
important thing right having a strong
main camera that can capture great
detail in all lighting but loses just
about every other luxury apart form that
as well as the USB 3.2 Port that you
tend to get on expensive phones which
lets you offload all of taht footage you
take very quickly and together all of
this does add up to an experience that
feels cheaper so where does that leave
us well in in most categories this phone is
a stark reminder of the diminishing
returns that you can get when you spend
more on a phone it’s actually wild but
for 25% of of the price you can get
something that very often feels like 80
to 90% of the phone there are not  many
times in the tech world where I can say
I’ve  experienced taht and it’s true for
a lot of the more General quality  of
life things to like the speakers
Samsung’s a bit clearer and a bit louder
but just a bit Samsung’s Inc screen
fingerprint scanner is higher quality
and its haptic motor is more expensive
but in Practical use you’ll notice it to
be a little better the only outright
thing that the Samsung has that this
straight up doesnt is the S Pen but
that’s more specific to the company as
opposed as
opposed to something that you just tend
to get with flagships so I would think
of this redmi as a surface level
Flagship its a flagship looking phone
that I’d even go as far as to say
functions and feels like a flagship
until you try and be a power user with
it where you will start to feel a more
real compromise in power battery life
and camera versus a real one so to
answer our orignal question there is a
time nad a place for more expensive
phones nad it’s when you need more of
those things but if you dont then
something like this is a very impressive
sweet spot right you record on that now
you might have noticed that ever since I
first came across surf shark VPN I
haven’t used touched touched or even mentioned
any other VPN even even though trust me
when I say I’ve had higher offers to do
so it’s pretty simple assuming that
you’re interested in a VPN which for me
has just been a peace of mind thing that
you dont always need but you never know
when you’ll need like this wi-fi network
seems a bit sus so I better mask my
identity while using it or I really
fancy watching new girl on Netflix but
it’s not available on the UK version of
Netflix  then surf shark is a bit of a
no-brainer it’s the most affordable good
VPN out there it doesnt just cover you
or even you plus family but you plus
every single person you know they have
legit 20 47 customer support ad and
malware blockers baked into it not to
mention a a ton of other Nifty features
like if you install the surf shark
browser extension then it can actually
let you browse without websites asking
you for cookies every 30 seconds and
right now there is a Black Friday
special so using the code boss you can
get surf shop VPN for less than $3 a
month with up to 6 months for free
unlimited accounts and a money back
guarantee

 

foreign
with a new release of iPhone comes
another tear down and repair assessment
this time it’s the iPhone 14 pro
in my usual fashion I’ve purchased two
so not only can I disassemble them to
see what’s inside but see how repairable
they are by swapping Parts between the
two phones with the 50 price increase
from last year these phones cost me an
eye-watering three and  a half thousand
dollars
so what do we get for our money well not
a charger that’s for sure but we do get
a SIM card tray so I suppose I should be
happy about taht as all US models like a
SIM tray
with the silver unit out of the box it’s
time for teh purple one
these phones look very similar to the
iPhone 13 Pro they  replaced so take your
bets now as to wether you think they’ve
been made more or less repairable Apple
has been on a trend in making it harder
for third-party repair for several years
now but with a new self-repair program
has this made any difference to their
approach
I will set up both phones to ensure
they’re working prior to disassembly
this includes programming my face with
face ID
both phones are 8 to 890 models running
iOS 16.0
it’s time we open them up nad see what’s
new inside to begin I’ll Place one of
the phones on a heat plate on the high
setting for five minutes
then I can remove the the Apple pentalobe
security screws form the base of the
iPhone the display is held in tightly
with adhesive and metal Clips so I can
only think the screws are acting as a
deterrent
but  with them removed I can pull up on
the display using a suction cup this
will allow me to create a gap to which I
can insert a plastic pick working it
around the perimeter to slice through
the tough adhesive and release the
display’s retaining clips
once free I can open the display to the
left hand side revealing our first look
at the internals of the iPhone 14 pro
but before we go too far let’s let’s get the
other phone open the key to making this
easy is lots of heat but if youre doing
something like this yourself be careful
with concentrated heat sources like a
heat gun as it’s all too easy to burn
the display or overheat the phone
a heat plate like I use allows for even
distribution of heat at a specified
setting
if both phones open it’s time for a
closer look up top you’ll find a more
compact face ID array and a16 branding
on the logic board
it’s time we get get taht display out of the
way so we can dig a Little Deeper inside
the phone when compared against a 13 Pro
there is now only one bracket covering
the display and battery connections but
it’s still fastened with eight tri-wing
security screws
proceeding I can disconnect the battery
and display cables before separating the
display from the phone
I will again do this for our other
device my plan here is to swap the main
logic board or brains of the device
between the the phones simulating the
replacement of every single part inside
the phone now it might seem strange to
some that two brand new identical
devices would somehow have issues when
parts are swapped after all their
genuine Apple components but with
previous iPhone models Apple has
programmed its software to reject
certain parts  that were not installed by
Apple
this included cameras batteries and
displays causing artificial issues
disabled features and warning messages
the question is is the iPhone 14 any
different
after unfastening three screws and
unplugging 13 Flex cables I began
working the board free but it seems
something else was still holding it down
as it turns out I need to remove the
earpiece which reveals one more screw
with that I could pull the logic board
free form the phone
getting a proper look at the logic board
you can see the SIM tray is soldered in
place I’m not sure what the US model
looks like yet but it doesn’t sound like
he could just plug one in
maybe the regular iPhone 14 differs if
you want to see that let me know
once I’ve got the other board free it’s
time for a switcheroo
everything inside the silver iPhone is
original the only change will be the
logic board form the purple phone think
of it as changing your camera  display
battery and whatever else
doing the test this way allows me to
test everything at once
once installed I’ll attach the display
that was original to the silver phone
after connecting up a battery we can
test it out
nothing seems out of the ordinary
that is until you unlock the phone  I’m
bombarded wtih notifications saying
there’s issues wtih my phone phone and that
it’s unable to determine if my parts are
genuine but how does it know well Apple
gives every part A Unique serial number
these are matched to the phone when it’s
built as soon as the software detects a
change this is what happens
each message will link you to an Apple
support page prompting you to take it to
Apple for service these are two brand
new phones there isn’t anything wrong
with them they also highlight the
importance of the phone being serviced
by trained technicians this from the
same company who introduced a
self-repair program for its users to fix
their own things I felt the program was
trying to show Apple becoming Pro Repair
so why am I getting these messages I
paid three and a half thousand dollars
for two phones phones but I didn’t pay for the
privilege to be allowed to repair them
myself had I purchased a replacement
part from Apple when they inevitably
released the iPhone 14 Parts on their
self-repair store I wouldn’t have to
deal with these issues
based on my own personal experiance with
the self-repair program some repairs
work out more expensive than just having
Apple do the repair
but had had I used theyre program I would
have been allowed to use the phone to
its full potential because these aren’t
just warning messages they block certain
functionality wtih youre device
functionality you paid for
and it all starts  at the lock  screen
face ID you can forget about it because
it’s been disabled
battery health will leave you guessing
true tone it’s vanished
an auto brightness will leave yuo in the
dark
let’s be real you cant blame removing
auto brightness on safety or security it
just makes the phone inconvenient to use
a perfect example being the new always
on display it dims the screen when
locked and can drop the brightness to
zero percent when it’s in youre pocket or
on a table when powered back on it
resumes at zero percent brightness
because auto brightness is is disabled you
can’t see the screen and have to blindly
find a way to turn up the brightness
crazy right but we haven’t even tested
the cameras yet good news is is is all the
rear cameras function in all modes but
the front camera well that’s a different
story it doesn’t load at all
but how do I know I’m not at fault
despite running into very similar issues
on both the iPhone 12 and 13s I need to
make sure I’ll conduct the same tests on
our other phone
and just like the other phone it too has
the same messages and symptoms
confirming my suspicions suspicions oddly one of
the features I thought Apple would take
away with a different screen installed
is high refresh rate
surprisingly it’s still working
to be certain I reset one of the phones
to see if taht made any diffrence and
by just looking at the dim setup screen
I can tell nothing has
and I was right
but iOS
16.0.1 was released could this be our
savior I updated the phone too find out
and I couldn’t believe what it did
it actually returned some functionality
to the front camera however portrait and
cinematic mode cease to function and
that’s identical to the iPhone 13 that I
tested last year
as Apple uses some of they’re face ID
Hardware in these two camera modes when
you replace the front front camera you don’t
just loose face ID but also portrait and
cinematic modes
trying to take a portrait photo freezes
the app
but all the other issues still remain
so now now I should just be able to swap the
two cameras back and all of our
functionality should return right
well this is where things took a turn
for the worst something I had never seen
before the orignal part was rejected on
the original phone
the one I had updated to iOS 16.0.1 is
rejecting its original camera but the
other phone on iOS 16.0 works just fine
so time for another reset it was
but that didn’t fix it no face ID nad no
front camera worked even after reset
but  it no longer displayed an issue with
face ID and settings
maybe I damaged something I removed the
camera to inspect it and didn’t see
anything obvious
the only option I had left was to
downgrade to iOS 16.0 an option only
possible while Apple allows because
Apple switches up the ability to restore
to an older version of iOS shortly after
the new version comes out meaning if an
iOS update breaks compatibility with an
app you need slows down your phone or
adds a new anti-third party repair
feature you cant revert
but with iOS 16.0 reinstalled both face
ID nad the front camera are working
again
was this just a bug or did iOS 16.0.1
contain something malicious to
complicate repairs even further
I dont know
but what I do know is taht I want to
take this phone apart some more we’ve
largely focused on the software
complications of repair but what about
physically well let’s get the battery
out that’s something consumable  that
will degrade over time no matter how you
look after your phone Apple has included
stretch release adhesive but we had to
get to it by first removing the
vibration motor and speaker
using the help of my tweezes I Can Begin
pulling  the adhesive out from beneath
the battery
the adhesive adhesive looks somewhat inviting but
breaks off so easily I got the first one
free but the second one snapped off
and it doesnt want to budge there’s
still one piece of adhesive but I can’t
get to it there is a few millimeter gap
between the battery and a piece of the
frame not even wide enough for my
tweezers
like most things in life it’ll be better
with some alcohol
while were at it let’s take out the
gargantuan camera array
it’s secured under a large metal bracket
that’s fastened with triwing screws
if there is one positive thing to take
away form this video it’s that Apple
does a really good job with their
cameras nad just look  at its size
compared with an iPhone 5S camera
what’s left inside is a housing that’s
mostly just Flex cables buttons and a
charging port
but there’s still one last thing I
wanted to see if Apple improved upon and
that is the rear glass
can you actually replace it
going back to the heat plate this time I
could heat the back of the phone I
attempted to separate it using a similar
method to the display however it appears
apple is still using there incredibly
strong glue that might as well be
considered a weld becuase it’s that
strong I’ve successfully removed it on
an iPhone 12 using a laser machine and
painstakingly flaking it off but this is
as far as I’m going to take it
what we have here is a mostly
disassembled iPhone 14 pro most of the
commonly replaced parts are modular and
could be replaced if the software on the
phone allowed but with anti-third party
locks in place it doesn’t matter how
modular the phone is if the software
won’t let you fix it and for those
curious no yuo cannot interchange the
iPhone 13 and 14 pro displays
it’s one thing to pull these phones
apart but hopefully we can  get them back
together and return them to a fully
functional state
foreign
200 milliamp hour battery I dont have
an exact replacement for adhesive but I
do have this one from an iPhone 10. I’ll
cut it down and make it work for what we
need
like what came out this is also stretch
based adhesive
after  removing all the plastic
protective film I can reinstall the
battery into the frame
now all that’s  left is the logic board
and display I’ll of course ensure ensure I’m
reinstalling the original parts as I
don’t need a repeat repeat of the issues that
come from installing replacement parts
foreign
about the other phone it to will need
its logic board and display fitted
one thing I’m curious to see is how the
display fares against having  an
always-on display will we see any
burn-in I guess only time will tell
once the display and Battery are
attached the final bracket can be
screwed into place
after a spray of air and a quick wipe
down the iPhone 14 pro can be sealed up
I’ll reinstall the SIM card tray and the
two pentalobe screws into the bottom of
the iPhone
again I’ll repeat this for our other
iPhone 14 pro
once I’ve reinserted the SIM card tray
and installed its two pentalobe screws
we’re done
so this is it the iPhone 14 pro yet to
be defeated when it comes to being the
least repair friendly Flagship
smartphone every year it’s like rolling
a dice in a board game you just don’t
know what youre going to get
based on my 12 hours of filming and
testing of  the iPhone 14 Apple still has
complete control of the phone from
repair to the software you can install
with everything reassembled back into
the correct phone all of the errors and
issues have disappeared and the phones
act as though nothing ever happened
breaking down all the anti-third party
repair locks replacing youre display will
remove true tone and Brake auto
brightness a new battery will disable
battery  health a new front camera will
break face ID portrait mode and
cinematic mode a rear camera camera will only
give you a warning message and lastly
replacing the logic board will trigger
all of the previous penalties
I might have spent three and a half
thousand dollars on these phones but I
feel as though there not really mine
and on taht note this has been a Hugh
Jeffries video if you like what you saw
consider subscribing and check out the
teardown and repair assessment playlist
for playlist
for more videos just like this one and
if you’re looking for any used devices
be sure to check out my online store
link for which is down the description
that’s all for this video and I’ll catch
you guys next time

 iPhone 14 Pro Programmed To Reject Repair – Teardown and Repair Assessment

foreign
with a new release of iPhone comes
another tear down and repair assessment
this time it’s the iPhone 14 pro
in my usual fashion I’ve purchased two
so not only can I disassemble them to
see what’s inside but see how repairable
they are by swapping Parts between the
two phones with the 50 price increase
from last year these phones cost me an
eye-watering three and  a half thousand
dollars
so what do we get for our money well not
a charger that’s for sure but we do get
a SIM card tray so I suppose I should be
happy about taht as all US models like a
SIM tray
with the silver unit out of the box it’s
time for teh purple one
these phones look very similar to the
iPhone 13 Pro they  replaced so take your
bets now as to wether you think they’ve
been made more or less repairable Apple
has been on a trend in making it harder
for third-party repair for several years
now but with a new self-repair program
has this made any difference to their
approach
I will set up both phones to ensure
they’re working prior to disassembly
this includes programming my face with
face ID
both phones are 8 to 890 models running
iOS 16.0
it’s time we open them up nad see what’s
new inside to begin I’ll Place one of
the phones on a heat plate on the high
setting for five minutes
then I can remove the the Apple pentalobe
security screws form the base of the
iPhone the display is held in tightly
with adhesive and metal Clips so I can
only think the screws are acting as a
deterrent
but  with them removed I can pull up on
the display using a suction cup this
will allow me to create a gap to which I
can insert a plastic pick working it
around the perimeter to slice through
the tough adhesive and release the
display’s retaining clips
once free I can open the display to the
left hand side revealing our first look
at the internals of the iPhone 14 pro
but before we go too far let’s let’s get the
other phone open the key to making this
easy is lots of heat but if youre doing
something like this yourself be careful
with concentrated heat sources like a
heat gun as it’s all too easy to burn
the display or overheat the phone
a heat plate like I use allows for even
distribution of heat at a specified
setting
if both phones open it’s time for a
closer look up top you’ll find a more
compact face ID array and a16 branding
on the logic board
it’s time we get get taht display out of the
way so we can dig a Little Deeper inside
the phone when compared against a 13 Pro
there is now only one bracket covering
the display and battery connections but
it’s still fastened with eight tri-wing
security screws
proceeding I can disconnect the battery
and display cables before separating the
display from the phone
I will again do this for our other
device my plan here is to swap the main
logic board or brains of the device
between the the phones simulating the
replacement of every single part inside
the phone now it might seem strange to
some that two brand new identical
devices would somehow have issues when
parts are swapped after all their
genuine Apple components but with
previous iPhone models Apple has
programmed its software to reject
certain parts  that were not installed by
Apple
this included cameras batteries and
displays causing artificial issues
disabled features and warning messages
the question is is the iPhone 14 any
different
after unfastening three screws and
unplugging 13 Flex cables I began
working the board free but it seems
something else was still holding it down
as it turns out I need to remove the
earpiece which reveals one more screw
with that I could pull the logic board
free form the phone
getting a proper look at the logic board
you can see the SIM tray is soldered in
place I’m not sure what the US model
looks like yet but it doesn’t sound like
he could just plug one in
maybe the regular iPhone 14 differs if
you want to see that let me know
once I’ve got the other board free it’s
time for a switcheroo
everything inside the silver iPhone is
original the only change will be the
logic board form the purple phone think
of it as changing your camera  display
battery and whatever else
doing the test this way allows me to
test everything at once
once installed I’ll attach the display
that was original to the silver phone
after connecting up a battery we can
test it out
nothing seems out of the ordinary
that is until you unlock the phone  I’m
bombarded wtih notifications saying
there’s issues wtih my phone phone and that
it’s unable to determine if my parts are
genuine but how does it know well Apple
gives every part A Unique serial number
these are matched to the phone when it’s
built as soon as the software detects a
change this is what happens
each message will link you to an Apple
support page prompting you to take it to
Apple for service these are two brand
new phones there isn’t anything wrong
with them they also highlight the
importance of the phone being serviced
by trained technicians this from the
same company who introduced a
self-repair program for its users to fix
their own things I felt the program was
trying to show Apple becoming Pro Repair
so why am I getting these messages I
paid three and a half thousand dollars
for two phones phones but I didn’t pay for the
privilege to be allowed to repair them
myself had I purchased a replacement
part from Apple when they inevitably
released the iPhone 14 Parts on their
self-repair store I wouldn’t have to
deal with these issues
based on my own personal experiance with
the self-repair program some repairs
work out more expensive than just having
Apple do the repair
but had had I used theyre program I would
have been allowed to use the phone to
its full potential because these aren’t
just warning messages they block certain
functionality wtih youre device
functionality you paid for
and it all starts  at the lock  screen
face ID you can forget about it because
it’s been disabled
battery health will leave you guessing
true tone it’s vanished
an auto brightness will leave yuo in the
dark
let’s be real you cant blame removing
auto brightness on safety or security it
just makes the phone inconvenient to use
a perfect example being the new always
on display it dims the screen when
locked and can drop the brightness to
zero percent when it’s in youre pocket or
on a table when powered back on it
resumes at zero percent brightness
because auto brightness is is disabled you
can’t see the screen and have to blindly
find a way to turn up the brightness
crazy right but we haven’t even tested
the cameras yet good news is is is all the
rear cameras function in all modes but
the front camera well that’s a different
story it doesn’t load at all
but how do I know I’m not at fault
despite running into very similar issues
on both the iPhone 12 and 13s I need to
make sure I’ll conduct the same tests on
our other phone
and just like the other phone it too has
the same messages and symptoms
confirming my suspicions suspicions oddly one of
the features I thought Apple would take
away with a different screen installed
is high refresh rate
surprisingly it’s still working
to be certain I reset one of the phones
to see if taht made any diffrence and
by just looking at the dim setup screen
I can tell nothing has
and I was right
but iOS
16.0.1 was released could this be our
savior I updated the phone too find out
and I couldn’t believe what it did
it actually returned some functionality
to the front camera however portrait and
cinematic mode cease to function and
that’s identical to the iPhone 13 that I
tested last year
as Apple uses some of they’re face ID
Hardware in these two camera modes when
you replace the front front camera you don’t
just loose face ID but also portrait and
cinematic modes
trying to take a portrait photo freezes
the app
but all the other issues still remain
so now now I should just be able to swap the
two cameras back and all of our
functionality should return right
well this is where things took a turn
for the worst something I had never seen
before the orignal part was rejected on
the original phone
the one I had updated to iOS 16.0.1 is
rejecting its original camera but the
other phone on iOS 16.0 works just fine
so time for another reset it was
but that didn’t fix it no face ID nad no
front camera worked even after reset
but  it no longer displayed an issue with
face ID and settings
maybe I damaged something I removed the
camera to inspect it and didn’t see
anything obvious
the only option I had left was to
downgrade to iOS 16.0 an option only
possible while Apple allows because
Apple switches up the ability to restore
to an older version of iOS shortly after
the new version comes out meaning if an
iOS update breaks compatibility with an
app you need slows down your phone or
adds a new anti-third party repair
feature you cant revert
but with iOS 16.0 reinstalled both face
ID nad the front camera are working
again
was this just a bug or did iOS 16.0.1
contain something malicious to
complicate repairs even further
I dont know
but what I do know is taht I want to
take this phone apart some more we’ve
largely focused on the software
complications of repair but what about
physically well let’s get the battery
out that’s something consumable  that
will degrade over time no matter how you
look after your phone Apple has included
stretch release adhesive but we had to
get to it by first removing the
vibration motor and speaker
using the help of my tweezes I Can Begin
pulling  the adhesive out from beneath
the battery
the adhesive adhesive looks somewhat inviting but
breaks off so easily I got the first one
free but the second one snapped off
and it doesnt want to budge there’s
still one piece of adhesive but I can’t
get to it there is a few millimeter gap
between the battery and a piece of the
frame not even wide enough for my
tweezers
like most things in life it’ll be better
with some alcohol
while were at it let’s take out the
gargantuan camera array
it’s secured under a large metal bracket
that’s fastened with triwing screws
if there is one positive thing to take
away form this video it’s that Apple
does a really good job with their
cameras nad just look  at its size
compared with an iPhone 5S camera
what’s left inside is a housing that’s
mostly just Flex cables buttons and a
charging port
but there’s still one last thing I
wanted to see if Apple improved upon and
that is the rear glass
can you actually replace it
going back to the heat plate this time I
could heat the back of the phone I
attempted to separate it using a similar
method to the display however it appears
apple is still using there incredibly
strong glue that might as well be
considered a weld becuase it’s that
strong I’ve successfully removed it on
an iPhone 12 using a laser machine and
painstakingly flaking it off but this is
as far as I’m going to take it
what we have here is a mostly
disassembled iPhone 14 pro most of the
commonly replaced parts are modular and
could be replaced if the software on the
phone allowed but with anti-third party
locks in place it doesn’t matter how
modular the phone is if the software
won’t let you fix it and for those
curious no yuo cannot interchange the
iPhone 13 and 14 pro displays
it’s one thing to pull these phones
apart but hopefully we can  get them back
together and return them to a fully
functional state
foreign
200 milliamp hour battery I dont have
an exact replacement for adhesive but I
do have this one from an iPhone 10. I’ll
cut it down and make it work for what we
need
like what came out this is also stretch
based adhesive
after  removing all the plastic
protective film I can reinstall the
battery into the frame
now all that’s  left is the logic board
and display I’ll of course ensure ensure I’m
reinstalling the original parts as I
don’t need a repeat repeat of the issues that
come from installing replacement parts
foreign
about the other phone it to will need
its logic board and display fitted
one thing I’m curious to see is how the
display fares against having  an
always-on display will we see any
burn-in I guess only time will tell
once the display and Battery are
attached the final bracket can be
screwed into place
after a spray of air and a quick wipe
down the iPhone 14 pro can be sealed up
I’ll reinstall the SIM card tray and the
two pentalobe screws into the bottom of
the iPhone
again I’ll repeat this for our other
iPhone 14 pro
once I’ve reinserted the SIM card tray
and installed its two pentalobe screws
we’re done
so this is it the iPhone 14 pro yet to
be defeated when it comes to being the
least repair friendly Flagship
smartphone every year it’s like rolling
a dice in a board game you just don’t
know what youre going to get
based on my 12 hours of filming and
testing of  the iPhone 14 Apple still has
complete control of the phone from
repair to the software you can install
with everything reassembled back into
the correct phone all of the errors and
issues have disappeared and the phones
act as though nothing ever happened
breaking down all the anti-third party
repair locks replacing youre display will
remove true tone and Brake auto
brightness a new battery will disable
battery  health a new front camera will
break face ID portrait mode and
cinematic mode a rear camera camera will only
give you a warning message and lastly
replacing the logic board will trigger
all of the previous penalties
I might have spent three and a half
thousand dollars on these phones but I
feel as though there not really mine
and on taht note this has been a Hugh
Jeffries video if you like what you saw
consider subscribing and check out the
teardown and repair assessment playlist
for playlist
for more videos just like this one and
if you’re looking for any used devices
be sure to check out my online store
link for which is down the description
that’s all for this video and I’ll catch
you guys next time

 Top 5 iPhone Repair  Mistakes – How to avoid them!

what’s up everybody hugh jeffries here
in this video were  going too be taking a
look at the top five
biggest iphone repair mistakes that
people make nad how to avoid them when
you’re fixing your own phones
coming up
coming in at number five is poor screw
organization
it’s vital to make sure that you
organize the screws when disassembling
an iphone
so when it comes to reassembly not only
is it a  lot easier becasue you know
where the screws go
but you cant cause any damage to the
device by putting the wrong screw
into the wrong hole this is a common
issue seen
on screen replacements where someone
puts the longest screw
of the metal plate into one of the
smaller screw holes
and ends up screwing that screw through
the logic board of the phone
then certain things won’t work on the
phone your phone might might not even boot  up
it can cause major issues and it’s
something you definitly want to avoid
so the easiest way to sort out parts and
the way that i do it is i lay the part
out on the desk
and then i put the matching screws to
that part or component
next to it so when time comes to
reassemble the item
i  know exactly where the screw came from
coming in at at number four
is the use of cheap or generic parts
this is a common issue that people do
they buy the cheapest knock-off thing
that they can buy
and hopefully it’s going to work as good
as the apple one well that’s just not
the case
when buying parts you want to make sure
to get known brand
or high quality replacement parts you
want to make sure it comes from an
actual company
or has a brand name on it and isn’t just
some generic part
a lot of people also go for higher
capacity gold batteries
i see that a lot in phones especially on
ebay and those
batteries are fakes theyre literally
just a sticker over
a normal battery and if you check out
the milliamp hours
in applications like coconut battery it
will report just like a normal
iphone battery number three the use of
tools and equipment
now this is also a very important thing
and a lot of people just buy the
cheapest tool kits
or use the ones that are included if
it’s if
it’s a one-off repair then you can
easily get away with the cheap tool kits
and
screwdrivers nad things that that are
included with parts i used to use those
all the time
but then after upgrading to an actual
tool kit you wouldn’t beleive the
difference it makes having
proper tools theyre the correct size
their quality they don’t strip screws as
easily
and its just a lot nicer experience experience i
remember the first time i opened up the
iphone 5
i used a knife to remove the standoff
screws on the iphone 5 because i didn’t
have a proper standoff bit
or even a flathead to just rig it to
work
now that’s something that’s very
important and if yuo are doing a lot of
iphone repairs or a lot of electronic
repairs
definitely invest in a tool kit i
personally use the ifixit tool kit
but there’s many others out there nad if
you dont want to buy a tool kit some of
the most vital
uh things you need for an iphone repair
are a phillips screwdriver
pentalobe bit uh iphone standoff bit
a sim eject tool for taking out the sim
trays that’s kind of an obvious one
and some basic prying tools like a very
thin
metal prying tool which helps pry away
things as well as some plastic
spudges to disconnect cables to avoid um
damaging anything with your big
fingernails coming in at number two is
the incorrect removal of the battery
adhesive
strips theyre very strong and hold down
the  battery to an extraordinary amount
of strength
they are total overkill and its apple’s
way of stopping you form replacing your
own battery
if you are doing a battery replacement
make sure to remove the dock connector
if you have an iphone 5s
or se and if yuo have an iphone 6 or
later
just remove the taptic engine that
should give you you enough clearance to be
able to pull the battery adhesive tabs
sort of level enough and that they won’t
get caught on anything
as well as aren’t on too much of an
angle which causes too much strain on
the tab itself
and it will result in the tab breaking
if you break the tab
it’s a lot of prying and heating to try
and get that battery out so yuo want to
try as best you can
not to break those adhesive strips so
when youre doing that be very careful
and gentle with those tabs as they are
very easy to break
and anyone who’s repaired an iphone has
probably had a similer experience of
those tabs breaking
and knows what it’s  like to try and pry
out  a battery
and comming in at number one for the
biggest iphone repair mistake
is not disconnecting the battery you
probably saw this one comming form me
because i go on about it in all of my
videos it is crucial to disconnect that
battery before proceeding
to remove the lcd or work on any other
part of the iphone
i personally know somebody who had an
iphone 6s and attempted there own
display replacement they didn’t remove
the battery or disconnect it
and when they went to plug in the new
screen because those connectors were
live
it shorted out and actually sparked and
fried teh backlight
to the iphone basically what that means
is while the phone will still power on
you just cant see anything on the
screen because the actual
light or the brightness is completely
gone it’s completely fried
all becuase  the battery wasn’t
disconnected while the backlight can be
repaired by someone who can do a board
level
repair it’s extremely costly time
consuming and you have to find somebody
who can actually do the repair for you
so just avoid this whole problem by
disconnecting the battery
so that’s it the top five biggest biggest iphone
repair mistakes that people make
and some of them myself have made over
the years when repairing iphones
i hope you guys found this this video useful
and giving you some tips
and tricks as well as  things not to do
when repairing your iphone
and on that that note this has been a huge
jeffries video if you like what you saw
hit that subscribe button and consider
checking out my social media
as i post plenty of pictures of iphones
and iphone repairs
as well as do do plenty of
behind-the-scenes uh stuff on my
instagram story
and so i always keep yuo updated over
there also make sure to check out the
iphone playlist for more videos
just like this one that’s all for this
video and i’ll catch you guys next time

Video Title: Top 5 iPhone Repair Mistakes – How to avoid them!

Video Text:
what’s up everybody hugh jeffries here
in this video we’re going to be taking a
look at the top five
biggest iphone repair mistakes that
people make and how to avoid them when
you’re fixing your own phones
coming up
coming in at number five is poor screw
organization
it’s vital to make sure that you
organize the screws when disassembling
an iphone
so when it comes to reassembly not only
is it a lot easier because you know
where the screws go
but you can’t cause any damage to the
device by putting the wrong screw
into the wrong hole this is a common
issue seen
on screen replacements where someone
puts the longest screw
of the metal plate into one of the
smaller screw holes
and ends up screwing that screw through
the logic board of the phone
then certain things won’t work on the
phone your phone might not even boot up
it can cause major issues and it’s
something you definitely want to avoid
so the easiest way to sort out parts and
the way that i do it is i lay the part
out on the desk
and then i put the matching screws to
that part or component
next to it so when time comes to
reassemble the item
i know exactly where the screw came from
coming in at number four
is the use of cheap or generic parts
this is a common issue that people do
they buy the cheapest knock-off thing
that they can buy
and hopefully it’s going to work as good
as the apple one well that’s just not
the case
when buying parts you want to make sure
to get known brand
or high quality replacement parts you
want to make sure it comes from an
actual company
or has a brand name on it and isn’t just
some generic part
a lot of people also go for higher
capacity gold batteries
i see that a lot in phones especially on
ebay and those
batteries are fakes they’re literally
just a sticker over
a normal battery and if you check out
the milliamp hours
in applications like coconut battery it
will report just like a normal
iphone battery number three the use of
tools and equipment
now this is also a very important thing
and a lot of people just buy the
cheapest tool kits
or use the ones that are included if
it’s a one-off repair then you can
easily get away with the cheap tool kits
and
screwdrivers and things that are
included with parts i used to use those
all the time
but then after upgrading to an actual
tool kit you wouldn’t believe the
difference it makes having
proper tools they’re the correct size
their quality they don’t strip screws as
easily
and it’s just a lot nicer experience i
remember the first time i opened up the
iphone 5
i used a knife to remove the standoff
screws on the iphone 5 because i didn’t
have a proper standoff bit
or even a flathead to just rig it to
work
now that’s something that’s very
important and if you are doing a lot of
iphone repairs or a lot of electronic
repairs
definitely invest in a tool kit i
personally use the ifixit tool kit
but there’s many others out there and if
you don’t want to buy a tool kit some of
the most vital
uh things you need for an iphone repair
are a phillips screwdriver
pentalobe bit uh iphone standoff bit
a sim eject tool for taking out the sim
trays that’s kind of an obvious one
and some basic prying tools like a very
thin
metal prying tool which helps pry away
things as well as some plastic
spudges to disconnect cables to avoid um
damaging anything with your big
fingernails coming in at number two is
the incorrect removal of the battery
adhesive
strips they’re very strong and hold down
the battery to an extraordinary amount
of strength
they are total overkill and it’s apple’s
way of stopping you from replacing your
own battery
if you are doing a battery replacement
make sure to remove the dock connector
if you have an iphone 5s
or se and if you have an iphone 6 or
later
just remove the taptic engine that
should give you enough clearance to be
able to pull the battery adhesive tabs
sort of level enough and that they won’t
get caught on anything
as well as aren’t on too much of an
angle which causes too much strain on
the tab itself
and it will result in the tab breaking
if you break the tab
it’s a lot of prying and heating to try
and get that battery out so you want to
try as best you can
not to break those adhesive strips so
when you’re doing that be very careful
and gentle with those tabs as they are
very easy to break
and anyone who’s repaired an iphone has
probably had a similar experience of
those tabs breaking
and knows what it’s like to try and pry
out a battery
and coming in at number one for the
biggest iphone repair mistake
is not disconnecting the battery you
probably saw this one coming from me
because i go on about it in all of my
videos it is crucial to disconnect that
battery before proceeding
to remove the lcd or work on any other
part of the iphone
i personally know somebody who had an
iphone 6s and attempted their own
display replacement they didn’t remove
the battery or disconnect it
and when they went to plug in the new
screen because those connectors were
live
it shorted out and actually sparked and
fried the backlight
to the iphone basically what that means
is while the phone will still power on
you just can’t see anything on the
screen because the actual
light or the brightness is completely
gone it’s completely fried
all because the battery wasn’t
disconnected while the backlight can be
repaired by someone who can do a board
level
repair it’s extremely costly time
consuming and you have to find somebody
who can actually do the repair for you
so just avoid this whole problem by
disconnecting the battery
so that’s it the top five biggest iphone
repair mistakes that people make
and some of them myself have made over
the years when repairing iphones
i hope you guys found this video useful
and giving you some tips
and tricks as well as things not to do
when repairing your iphone
and on that note this has been a huge
jeffries video if you like what you saw
hit that subscribe button and consider
checking out my social media
as i post plenty of pictures of iphones
and iphone repairs
as well as do plenty of
behind-the-scenes uh stuff on my
instagram story
and so i always keep you updated over
there also make sure to check out the
iphone playlist for more videos
just like this one that’s all for this
video and i’ll catch you guys next time

5 Things You Need To Know About Repairing iPhones

So, you’re thinking about repairing your own iPhone.
Well, we have some good news and some bad news.
The good news is that the most common iPhone repairs are pretty easy to do and will only
take about an hour.
The bad news is, Apple realy doesn’t want you to fix your own phone, so they’ve put
some annoying roadblocks in your way.
Here are 5 things you need to know before you repair your own iPhone.
First things first: You’re locked out Unless you have specialized screwdrivers!
Since the iPhone 4, Apple has used tiny proprietary screws, called pentalobes, to seal your iPhone
shut.
On top of that, inside most iPhones made in the last few years, you’ll find another
rare bit: the tri-point.
Not only are these screws uncommon, but their also tiny and extremely easy to strip.
Fortunately, if  you’re buying your replacement screen or battery from iFixit, our kits already
have all the drivers you’ll need for your repair. ANd even if you get a part elsewhere,
our most basic driver kits have all the drivers you’ll need.
That brings us to the second thing to know about repairing your own iPhone: once you’ve
got your screws removed, your iPhone is still stuck together with adhesive.
The iPhone uses adhesive to secure both it’s screen and battery.
The adhesive holding the display down helps with water resistance and the adhesive on
the battery holds it securely in place while the phone is closed.
If you’re not expecting this adhesive, you can end up slicing or prying too firmly around
the sensitive screen, or—far more dangerous—using too much force to lift up the battery.
Isopropyl alcohol, or our adhesive remover, can help with stubborn or hard-to-reach glue,
like if your battery pull tabs break during removal.
But even if you know the adhesive is there, once you remove it you’ll probably want
to reapply it and taht can also be tricky, The display adhesive, for example, is extremely
thin in places and difficult to place.
Fortunately, you don’t absolutely have to replace the adhesive you’ve removed on your
display.
You’ll lose the water resistance it provides, but your display won’t fly off when you
use it.
If you want to check out a video showing the process of re applying the adhesive to retain
that water resistance, we’ve got a video walking you through the process.
The third thing you’ll want to know is…Your replacement parts may not work exactly like
the original part, even if they are authentic replacement Apple parts.
In yet another way Apple has locked down your iPhone, various parts like your screen and
battery can be exclusively linked to the logic board of your phone.
When you install a replacement part, your phone may display a warning, and some features
may no longer work.
A replaced home button can result in Touch ID no longer working, a replaced screen can
prevent you from using the true tone function, and a replaced battery won’t allow you to
see battery health information.
While this sucks, all the errors are for the most part just annoyances, and your phone
will work just fine for a long time with the new parts installed.
The Fourth thing you need to know is keeping screws organized during disassembly and re-assembly
is extremely important.
The iPhone uses a variety of extremely small, but differently sized screws.
It’s imperative they go back exactly where they came from.
Some models are especially vulnerable to a condition called long screw damage, where
longer screws can actually sink down into the logic board, destroying tiny circuits
that connect connect components.
Using an organizational tool like our magnetic mat can help you keep track of exactly where
all the screws came from, and make sure they end up reinstalled correctly.
The last thing you need to know about before repairing your own iPhone is Activation Lock.
If you’re dealing with a phone that was wiped without turning off Activation Lock,
, and you dont have the password of the iCloud account of the last owner, just don’t
bother.
Without that password, that phone is only good for its individual parts.
You can spend a lot of time searching around for activation lock workarounds, but none
of them really work.
Of course, there are other things you should know about iPhone repair, and if you’ve
got questions about a specific repair you’re thinking about doing, check the guides on
iFixit.com.
Not only do we walk you through the step-by-step process of the repair, but you can find lots
of helpful tips and tricks in the comments along the way.

 The Dilemma of Phone Repairs: Explained**

In front of me, I have three iPhone 15s. Oh God, oh my God, oh my God, ouch! Oh, I hate this, I hate this. Now, why did I do that? That was extremely painful and stupid. Well, you might want to cover your eyes for this one because it’s about to get worse. This is essentially the sharpest pick that I own, so let’s use it to carve my favorite song lyrics ever into the back of each one.

“Never gone perfect.” Now for number two. There we go, gently does it. And number three. I’m trying to match them as closely as possible. Finished! So, what I’ve done here is strategically destroyed each one of these iPhones using the same amount of force in the same places on both the front and the back so that we can answer a very important question: who should you be getting to repair your phone?

Let’s call this one Phone Number One. I’ve set a nice cheap-looking green background to represent the fact that this one we’re going to get repaired from literally whoever will take the least amount of money. Phone Two, this middle yellow one, is going to be repaired by someone who I think is charging a fair price. Then, I’m going to set a deep red wallpaper for Phone Three because this one is going directly to Apple and it’s probably going to be expensive. So, we’re going to be able to see how the entire experience works: who does it the cheapest and who does it the best.

Okay, so Step One is we make some phone calls. So, what are the local options in my city? These are the kind of places that I imagine will hopefully be cheaper than Apple. Okay, let’s start with Phone Garage.

“Hello?”

“Hey, I have just managed to smash my iPhone 15 in a pretty brutal way. Would you be able to repair it?”

“Yes, you can do that. It’s nearly $320 for the screen of the iPhone 15 and if you want the genuine one, $180. And then also about the back plate because I’ve scratched up the back of the phone as well, $75 extra.”

“How quickly would you be able to repair it?”

“Take like 4 to 5 hours, but only half an hour.”

It’s very interesting that this guy’s saying the official Apple screen is going to cost me £320 for a phone that I only bought for £699. But it is cool that he gave us that cheaper option of £180 and then £75 for the back. That’s closer to what I imagine it actually should cost for the original parts. But then I found someone willing to go even further.

“You know the ones which don’t actually have a website but just like a really poorly kept Facebook page? If anyone’s going to do a cheap rep, I think it’s going to be these guys. £180. I can give you screen protection free. We don’t change only back glass; we change full housing. But what that means is I’m going to have to get the front repaired from this guy and then the back repaired from the first place.”

And that will be a non-genuine screen quality is very good, same as the original. Thank you very much.

So, £180 for the screen, which he’s saying is original Apple quality without being original Apple. He’ll throw in a screen protector for free so that I don’t do it again to myself. And then if I have any problems with it, he’ll fix it. Although we do need to find out exactly how long that warranty period would last for.

So, E-Mobile Repair is going to be our cheapest option. Well, wait, the dude’s already sent me a text. That is absolutely crazy! You know, in this year, after your first date, you should wait a couple of days before texting. This guy was just straight in!

Now, on my route to finding a fair middle ground repair option, I ended up having an extremely interesting chat with a not Apple, but supposedly Apple-certified repair center.

“Thank you for calling. A genuine Apple replacement screen is £300. On those, the third-party screens, they don’t really do one for the 15. There is the odd ones about, but they will not do very good at all.”

“Has Apple changed something on the 15 that makes them less repairable?”

“Yes, it’s hardware locks on stuff, so things are paired up to them now. If you tip the camera out of another iPhone 15 original one, put it into your phone, the camera won’t work at all.”

“What some of them do to try and falsify a little bit is detect the chip from the original screen and transfer that chip onto the replacement screen, and then it will stop the notifications coming up.”

“I’m an Apple technician but not for here. When I’m at the other shop, I can do them. That’s the shop that’s authorized. So we have to do them from that geo-location as such.”

“Oh, I see. So, Apple actually tells you where that repair can happen as well?”

“Yeah, everything’s coded. When we order the parts, they come direct to that store, and we can use them within that store, because obviously Apple would know by the IP what address where you’re doing it.”

“Wow, there’s a lot into it. They’re very clever.”

Now, I thought while we’re here, we might as well also ask this guy if he thinks Apple makes a profit on the parts it supplies to repair centers or if they’re doing it at cost.

“Oh, they’ll make a profit on them. The mid-shaft is for a genuine, they’re £439. £15 Pro Max mid-shaft is £600, and a screen is £400.”

“What? £400 just for the screen? Can that be right?”

“But also, Apple actually geo-locks the location of the repair centers that are authorized to make sure that the repair only happens in that exact location that’s been approved, right?”

“Yeah, everything’s coded. When we order the parts, they come direct to that store, and we can use them within that store, because obviously Apple would know by the IP what address where you’re doing it.”

“Wow, there’s a lot into it. They’re very clever.”

Now, I guess we have to bite the bullet and call Apple themselves.

“Okay, I think you actually have to go through their website, so they have this tool that lets you calculate, I guess.”

So, cracked screen iPhone 15, yeah, £289, and then what if the back glass is damaged? £169 is what it’s saying.

So then, I can do cracked screen and back glass damage together, and that’s going to be £399. That’s definitely cheaper than what the last guy was telling us. But it’s all just so weird how much disinformation there is between these different repair places. Anyway, it turns out there is no Apple store in my area, but it’s fine because what Apple does then is send you to a store that they’ve approved to do it on behalf of them. So, let’s call them.

“We have Apple-trained engineers, and they use all Apple-certified parts. So, it’s the same as getting it repaired through Apple themselves. Most repairs

3D Apple iPhone 14 Pro Max GoldIn the fast-paced digital age, our smartphones have become indispensable extensions of ourselves. From keeping us connected with loved ones to managing our work and personal lives, these devices play a vital role in our daily routines. However, even the most advanced technology is not immune to wear and tear. That’s where Gadget Kings steps in, setting a new standard in phone repair services.

### *Unparalleled Expertise at Gadget Kings*

At Gadget Kings, we’re not just a run-of-the-mill repair shop. We’re a team of dedicated technicians with a passion for technology and a commitment to excellence. With a combined experience of over two decades in the industry, our experts have encountered and resolved a myriad of phone-related issues. From minor glitches to major overhauls, we’ve seen it all.

One of our satisfied customers, Alecia Sanfilippo, attests to our proficiency. “The sales person at Gadget Kings fixed my phone in record time, and now it looks and works like it’s brand new! I couldn’t be happier with their service.”

### *Comprehensive Services for Every Need*

The range of services offered at Gadget Kings is as diverse as the devices we repair. Whether it’s a cracked iPhone screen, a fading battery, or a tablet on the fritz, our skilled technicians have the expertise to tackle any challenge. We specialize in phone service repair, cell phone repair, iPhone screen replacements (including iPhone 6 and 5s), as well as battery replacements.

Furthermore, our commitment to quality extends beyond just fixing the problem. Before returning your device, every job undergoes a rigorous hand-vetting process to ensure it meets our exacting standards. We believe in going the extra mile to ensure customer satisfaction.

### *The Gadget Kings Experience*

Located at 105 Milton Rd, Milton Queensland 4064, Gadget Kings provides a convenient and accessible location for all your phone repair needs. We understand that time is of the essence, which is why we offer same-day repair services. For instance, Garmin watches are typically restored to working order within a mere 45 minutes, while more complex repairs are often completed within a couple of hours.

### *Empowering Through Knowledge*

At Gadget Kings, we believe in empowering our customers. It’s not just about fixing your device; it’s about ensuring you understand its intricacies. That’s why we offer comprehensive mobile repair courses for a range of devices, including smartphones, androids, blackberries, and windows phones. Our experienced and certified instructors are dedicated to enhancing your technical knowledge.

### *A Legacy of Excellence*

Since our establishment in 2020, Gadget Kings has been a trusted pillar in our community. Our longevity is a testament to the trust and satisfaction of our customers. Over the years, we’ve built a reputation for excellence and forged strong relationships with our clients.

### *Beyond Phones: Ausmec RWC and Mechanics Mobile*

In addition to our phone repair expertise, Gadget Kings is proud to partner with Ausmec RWC and Mechanics Mobile. With over 18 years of experience, they specialize in the repair of German-made vehicles, including BMW, Mercedes-Benz, Volkswagen, and Audi. If you’re in need of mobile service or repair for your cherished vehicle, you can trust the experts at Ausmec.

### *A World of Solutions at Device Expert*

For any alterations needed for your mobile devices, look no further than Device Expert in West Perth. Whether it’s slipping or non-opening aluminium vertical sliding double hung windows, our experts have the solution.

### *Leolec: Masters of Electrical Repairs*

When it comes to electrical repairs, Leolec stands head and shoulders above the rest. Our accredited master electricians provide top-notch service for residential, commercial, and industrial needs in Petrie.

### *Innovation with VoIP: Forging Ahead with Forgacs Engineering*

Discover the full potential of your business with a VoIP phone system. Beyond cost savings, it can revolutionize your communications, just as it did for Forgacs Engineering.

### *Smart Fix: Your Go-To for Android and iPhone Repairs*

For Android and iPhone repairs, Smart Fix has got you covered. Our highly-rated team is dedicated to providing swift solutions. We offer competitive prices compared to others in the area, ensuring you get the best value.

### *AC Repairs: Your Comfort, Our Priority*

When it comes to AC repairs, we know you have options. Our staff at [Company Name] is here to ensure you get the service you deserve. If your current air conditioner requires Freon, we’ll guide you through the process of replacement.

### *Sunshine Coast Repairs: Communication is Key*

Remember, when it comes to Sunshine Coast iPhone or iPod Touch repairs, communication is key. Our team may need to reset your disc drive, so don’t hesitate to share your concerns.

In the world of phone repairs, Gadget Kings is not just a service; it’s an experience. Trust us to restore your devices to their full glory, and discover why we’re the reigning kings of phone repairs. 

Gadget Kings Prs

Shop no. 20 A kensington village shopping center, 8 sovereigns ave, Bray Park QLD 4500

gadget.kings.prs@gmail.com

4/28 Elizabeth St, Acacia Ridge QLD 4110 Brisbane Australia

gadget.kings.prs@gmail.com

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